Saturday, April 10, 2010

Spring Gifts


Spring brings many gifts to the chef and usually they come through the hands of the farmer. These sweet, piquant kale florets were delivered today by Indian Ridge Farm. It's unusually early for kale to go to flower, especially in North Georgia, where Indian Ridge is located. No doubt those 80 degree days we had in early April coaxed these brassicas into seed a bit prematurely. We are grateful for them whenever they come and tonight they will be featured with our lamb. Come taste some of the season's bounty.



Friday, April 2, 2010

Chef Hopkins' Oyster Recipe in this month's Garden & Gun



Deep-Fried Oysters

Linton Hopkins
Holeman & Finch Public House, Atlanta, Georgia

I had just moved to New Orleans to begin my externship at Mr. B’s Bistro. I had never lived in New Orleans before and somehow got it into my head to discover the best po’boys in the city. I remember the first joint I went to—Domilise’s—on the advice of a friend. It was in Uptown, and in the middle of a neighborhood. Women were wearing dresses and flip-flops and frying oysters right where you walked in. I ordered an oyster po’boy with rémoulade and a root beer. I watched the ladies lightly coat the oysters and fry them crisp. It looked so simple (I have found out through years of cooking that it is). The oysters were golden brown with a thin crunchy coating sitting on rémoulade and crusty bread. I was in heaven. Every time I fry and serve oysters, part of me always goes back to that day.

Oyster Items
1 pint Southern oysters (usually 20 to 30, preferably no larger than a half dollar), shucked and stored in their own liquor

Breading Ingredients
1 pint buttermilk 1 dry pint cornmeal (about 2¹/³ cups); I get a crisp crust by using Anson Mills Antebellum fine yellow cornmeal
1 dry pint all-purpose flour (about 2¹/³ cups)
1 tbsp. Creole seasoning
1 tsp. kosher salt

Preparation
Reserve buttermilk in separate container. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the dry ingredients until well blended. Remove oysters from liquor, draining excess so oysters are still wet but not dripping. Place all of the oysters in buttermilk. One at a time, remove each oyster from the buttermilk, allowing the excess to drip back into the container. Toss to coat all sides in the breading (gently press the breading onto the oyster to help it adhere). Transfer to waxed-paper-lined plate or cookie sheet until oysters are all breaded.

In a heavy stockpot with high sides fitted with a deep-frying (or candy) thermometer, bring at least two inches of peanut oil to 375ºF.

Keeping the heat at a steady 375ºF and working in batches of six, fry the oysters until they are golden brown and just cooked through, about 90 seconds. (The oysters will curl slightly when they are done.) Using a slotted spoon, remove oysters and drain on brown-paper-bag-lined plate. Serve immediately with a side of rémoulade (see below).

Rémoulade Ingredients
1 cup mayonnaise (preferably homemade)
½ cup Creole mustard (like Zatarain’s)
2 tbsp. hot sauce (preferably Louisiana style, like Crystal or Trappey’s)
1 tbsp. honey
1 tsp. finely chopped garlic
¹/8 tsp. cayenne
½ tsp. filé powder
¼ cup minced green onion

Preparation
Place ingredients in mixing bowl and whisk until well combined. Transfer to storage container, cover, and refrigerate for up to one week.

You’ve Fried Them. Now What?
Two more recipes from Chef Hopkins

1) Fried Oyster Po’boys I fell in love with these when I was a cook in New Orleans, and I serve them on my lunch menu with a few changes. We use a Pullman white loaf, cut horizontally to get two large slices. Butter both sides of the bread and griddle to a golden brown. Lay out both slices and spread mayonnaise on one side of each piece. Top the bottom half with fresh chopped romaine and sliced tomatoes. Add fried oysters and close with the second slice of toast (mayonnaise side down). Eat with hot sauce and cold root beer.

2) Fried Oysters with Simple Greens, Buttermilk Dressing, and Bacon This recipe combines many items I love about the South: fried oysters, buttermilk, bacon, and local lettuces. I mix about a half cup of good-quality mayonnaise with a quarter cup of buttermilk, a few dashes of red wine vinegar and hot sauce, a lot of fresh black pepper, and a dash of salt. I cut some bacon into a large dice and sauté it in an iron skillet until chewy/crispy. I clean the freshest lettuces I can find. I place the fried oysters on a plate in the shape of a circle, put the greens into the middle of that circle, sprinkle with the bacon, and dress with my spicy, creamy sauce.
—As told to Francine Maroukian

To read the entire article, visit: http://gardenandgun.com/article/southerners-guide-oysters

Friday, March 26, 2010

Duck Hams Hanging


Chef's Ryan Smith and Richard Neal are serious about food. Keeping it interesting and delicious is the order every day, such as with these duck hams they cure for our duck plate.

They start with young ducklings from Ashley Farms in North Carolina and season them with salt, sugar, orange zest and cardamom. Then they cure it for 7 days. Then rinse and repeat. The partially cured breasts are allowed to set and then wrapped in cheese cloth. They hang in the curing case for about a month. And then, voila!

Imagine salty sweet ham that has the richness of duck. According to Richard, duck ham is best described by taste. Come see for yourself.

Saturday, March 20, 2010

Bacon Celebration with Ari Weinzweig at Restaurant Eugene and Holeman & Finch

1st: April 21st 5:30 - 6:30
Join Holeman and Finch for a book signing and bacon tasting with Ari Weinzweig, whose most recent book, The Zingerman's Guide to Better Bacon, has been called an essential guidebook for any bacon enthusiast. Holeman and Finch's celebrated barkeep, Greg Best, will be mixing the perfect pork pairing.
$25 per person; Reservations Required. Call 404.948.1175

2nd: April 21st 7:15
Join Restaurant Eugene for a very special collaborative dinner with esteemed guest Ari Weinzweig from Zingerman's. Chef Hopkins' inspiration for the four-course meal (with pairings) will come from Weinzweig's latest tome, The Zingerman's Guide to Better Bacon, a 240-page examination of the history and deliciousness of salt-cured pork belly. Mr Weinzweig will continue the revelry by sharing insights from the book, including why bacon is "the olive oil of America."
$85 per person; Reservations Required. Call 404.355.0321

Books will be available for purchase at both events courtesy of A Cappella Books.